Early morning in any place is a calm, contemplative time. A city without the bustle of its daily life is like taking a closer look at a finely crafted container free from the distractions of its actual utility. So I often wake up early to explore a place. Rome is one of those cities that simply calms a bit but does not stop. Assisi does seem to reset itself every morning.
Assisi is a large medieval town that clings fortuitously to the west flank of a great bulging arc of a mountain, Monte Subiaso. It is hemmed in by a tight ring of serviceable walls that act today more to contain the burgeoning rosy white stone walls of the City than in keeping warring city states out.
I left the apartment at 5:45 this morning to watch the sun rise and begin to paint the towers and domes with light. Had I thought of Assisi's geography sooner, I might have enjoyed more sleep: being on the west side of a mountain, the light would not hit the City for a couple of hours. Determined, I decided to climb to the pinnicle of the town, the lofty citadel called the Rocca Maggiore, to greet the sun where it would hit Assisi first. I was not disappointed. The beauty of the early morning dim light against a lightening sky was exactly what I was seeking. All alone on the ruins of the castle, with only the birds to be heard (is this where St. Francis started to preach to our winged friends?), I spent an hour watching the Sun come up and over the mountain. It washed the great valley below Assisi first, and I watched the light race up toward the town below like a rapid high tide. Finally the light hit the town and ultimately the great, austere Gothic facade of the Basilica of Saint Francis. Roosters everwhere were crowing as the light filled the hills and valleys of the surrounding countryside.
Assisi is a large medieval town that clings fortuitously to the west flank of a great bulging arc of a mountain, Monte Subiaso. It is hemmed in by a tight ring of serviceable walls that act today more to contain the burgeoning rosy white stone walls of the City than in keeping warring city states out.
I left the apartment at 5:45 this morning to watch the sun rise and begin to paint the towers and domes with light. Had I thought of Assisi's geography sooner, I might have enjoyed more sleep: being on the west side of a mountain, the light would not hit the City for a couple of hours. Determined, I decided to climb to the pinnicle of the town, the lofty citadel called the Rocca Maggiore, to greet the sun where it would hit Assisi first. I was not disappointed. The beauty of the early morning dim light against a lightening sky was exactly what I was seeking. All alone on the ruins of the castle, with only the birds to be heard (is this where St. Francis started to preach to our winged friends?), I spent an hour watching the Sun come up and over the mountain. It washed the great valley below Assisi first, and I watched the light race up toward the town below like a rapid high tide. Finally the light hit the town and ultimately the great, austere Gothic facade of the Basilica of Saint Francis. Roosters everwhere were crowing as the light filled the hills and valleys of the surrounding countryside.
I have explored many places in the early morning, but Assisi was the most spiritual. St. Francis may have set up the feeling for this place, but for the visitor to Assisi to truly sense it, they must find this time for solitude and contemplation. It can be exhilirating.
The view of the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi from the Rocca Maggiore.
The view of the Basilica from the Piazza Inferiore.
A Franciscan on the way to the Basilica.
The flags of a contrada in the Upper City.
2 comments:
Ciao Curtis, Assissi is a beautiful place but you obviously were there before the tourists touched base that day which would make it even more special! I'll look forward to your next entry.
Curtis! I am very jealous. Italy looks beautiful! Great photos.
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